Monthly Archives: April 2017
You might want to take a look at this video if you think your bike lock is secure. And then there is the cordless battery powered right angle grinders with a cutting disk on it which can cut thru most metal easily and quickly.
While out on a ride recently I noticed (could not help but notice) lots of dog and goose poop on the trail. Now I understand that wild animals are going to do this and there isn’t much we can do about it. We just have to deal with it. The matter of dogs comes down to their owners. The dogs may not know better, but their owners certainly do. They just don’t care. Sadly there doesn’t appear to be much we can do about it either. Yes, I know … S H _ T HAPPENS!
We can’t expect the dog to clean up after themselves, but dog owners are required by law to do so as does common decency.
I said it is not the dog’s fault and this is true. However, they can be taught where they should and should not go to the toilet. Here is an example of a well trained dog who knows where it is appropriate to relieve himself: Then again, dogs are generally more savvy than lots of people.
And another one:
This much I know … it ain’t good to ride thru poop. And unfortunately it is rare to see anybody make any effort to get it off of the trails. I spent a third of my time riding today removing poop from off of the trail. It is really aggravating as this should not be happening. What is wrong with people that they do this? I wasn’t raised that way. I find it hard to believe that people can be so low and irresponsible. Yet it seems to be all too commonplace. Nobody wants to walk along stepping in dog poop or riding thru it on a cycle. It is challenging enough to avoid riding over dog poop on a bicycle. With a tadpole trike it is even more difficult to avoid as we have three different tracking wheels and our trikes being wider we don’t always have the space to maneuver as we really need to.
In addition to the fact that it is quite unpleasant to step on or ride over dog poop it is illegal for dog owners to allow a dog to poop outdoors and then not clean up after them. I have said it before, but I would like to see these dog owners faces shoved down into their dog’s pile of poop.
Well, now I went and did it. I unloaded here. I feel better now. So I say pooh pooh on poo poo. Without it it is much easier to …
ENJOY THE RIDE!
Are whilte lights legal on the rear of a trike? I will make this short and to the point …
Yet we see trikers using them all the time. I guess many just like to spurn the law. And I am amazed that most of them seem to get away with it. I have not yet seen the police pay any attention to it around where I live. That surprises me and, I have to admit, disappoints me. I believe the law should be enforced. I tried a white light on the rear of my trike awhile back. It had plenty of red lights as well as you can see in the video below. It really stood out, but I didn’t leave it on my trike as I didn’t want to be in violation of the law.
The reason it is against the law is simple enough. It is confusing to others. In short, they don’t know whether you are coming or going and that is because white lights belong on the front of a vehicle. Most people who see a white light on a vehicle just assume, and rightfully so, that they are looking at the front of the vehicle. After all, that is where the law requires white lights to be. So if you are one of those who insist on having white lights on the rear of your trike you better hope you don’t get involved in a bad accident. Someone might come along and try to twist your head around 180 degrees thinking it is facing the wrong direction. LOL Seriously, I know having a white light on the rear of a trike can be eye catching, but it really is illegal … to the best of my knowledge in all 50 states in the U.S. I would recommend a high intensity red light. They are extremely visible and they are legal. I am talking about daytime use. Riding at night one should not use these extremely bright lights as they are too much and can cause problems for others as they are simply blinding. In the daytime though they work great.
BE SEEN, BE SAFE!!!
Here is a good instructional video produced by Park Tools. I will add some personal comments and suggestions further below.
In the video it was pointed out that the threads should have either an anti-seize product or grease applied. This is a very good idea as if you have ever encountered pedals that are extremely difficult to loosen and remove this the reason why as none was used when they were installed. If you find rgat you can’t loosen the pedals there some things you can try. My first recommendation is to try impact on rhe wrench. You can smack it with palm of your hand if you are tough enough to do so. You can use a soft hammer so as not to damage the wrench. You can also use a piece of wood to either place on the wrench handle to help protect it and use a regular steel hammer to smack the wood. You can use a board (such as a 2×4) as a hammer to smack the wrench handle. If you find the pedal threads don’t want to cooperate and turn to loosen you can try tightening it a bit more and then try loosening it. If you can’t budge the wrench to tighten it you can use impact. Just don’t try to turn it very far in tightening it. If you experience the threads being very tight and uncooperative as you try to unscrew it you may have to try using special penetrating oil such as WD-40. Even after trying that it may be a good idea and necessary to turn the threads both directions back and forth to carefully remove the pedal without doing damage to the threads. I would advise you to continue to use the penetrating oil frequently as you turn the threads back and forth as this will aid the penetrating oil to “penetrate” and do it’s job. There is always the possibility that a threading tap should be used to clean up the threads before a new pedal is installed in a crankarm that you had a difficult time removing the pedal. Hopefully you won’t encounter this problem, but if you do I think this advise will be helpful. Let’s all try to …
KEEP ON TRIKIN’
There are many bike locks already available and, of course, some are far better than others. In trying to secure our trikes we could do as the person did with this bicycle shown above or we could use just one lock … a FoldyLock. Yep, a rather unique product has come along called the FoldyLock. As many products have started out it used KickStarter which was successful for them and now their product is on the market and available. It is not cheap, but it does seem to be quite secure.
What is Foldylock?
Foldylock is a premium folding Bike lock that easily unfolds to a 90 cm (Approx. 35.5 inches) sturdy lock. When folded it is easily carried in its designated case, mounted on your bike frame , or in rider’s back pack. The case can be mounted to a bike frame using the bottle holder fixing screws or with two specially designed straps. The case has a rattle free mechanism to prevent your lock from shaking while riding.
Foldylock will retail at 95 USD.
The plastic storage case comes in red, green or creme.
Certainly there are several other very good bicycle locks on the market and I am not trying to promote this one over any other. I am simply reporting this one to to you as I came across it recently and thought it worthwhile to share with you.
The BicycleMan, Peter Stull, has made videos on many topics. Among them are on the subject of the history of recumbents. Covering the history of recumbents does, of course, mean that the majority is about bicycles and not trikes. Trikes are included however. Without further ado here are the videos:
Evolve Trikes … interesting concept, but they are sure having problems getting into production and to market. Years and years seem to be passing by and still they are waiting for things to come together. It just doesn’t seem to be happening. Yep, they seem to be having trouble evolving to market.
Since it’s inception they have made some changes in its design. The main boast is that it folds faster and smaller than any other trike.
When I look at the design construction of trikes I am always concerned about how ell they are made and whether or not they are likely to fail. Mind you I am not an engineer, but I do have well over 50 years experience at welding and fabricating. In welding my “specialty” was repair welding. That means I worked on a whole lot of things that failed and required repair. In making the repair it was usually easy and obvious to see why the item failed. And in repairing it I always made it much stronger so that it didn’t fail again. Looking at many trikes I see areas of concern in many of them. They just look weak and apt to fail. Many folding trikes concern me for this reason. This one not only is no exception, but it is even more of a concern as it just looks weak. Any trike can have a failure, but some seem to have far more than others. Again, looking at the way they are constructed I can see why. A simple basic rule is that the more complex something is the more likely it will have issues over something with less complexity.
Here it is disassembled and folded up into a suitcase. The video below shows how it is done.
I don’t know what the weight limit is for the Evolve trike, but I think that it would be best for those who weigh very little. A heavy rider would stress those areas which are already suspect of failure.
I personally don’t think I would buy one of these trikes as it just has the appearance that problems would develop due to failure in one or more parts of the frame.
The folding hinge is quite often a concern and this one is no exception. When I look at something like this the thought that comes to mind is “designed to fail” due to being underbuilt. Mind you, this is far from the only tadpole trike which in my opinion looks underbuilt.
Another factor is wear and sloppiness developing in these areas. Things get loose and movement takes place where there should be no movement.
I know that the Evolve people are not going to like what I have said here and perhaps some of you may not either. I have to say what I think about these things. I hope I am wrong and this trike would hold up well. But my gut feeling is otherwise. I like the concept. I am just concerned about the quality of the build. Manufacturers underbuilding products brought a lot of repair work my way over the years. I would not want a trike that requires repair and reinforcing it to make it stronger. That would be my concern here. This may be okay for someone who rides very little and needs a small folding trike, but I could not recommend it for anyone who does serious riding. I don’t care how good of a warranty it may come with and how good the company may be in taking care of customers … when you are many miles from home and have a major failure leaving you stranded it is not fun. Nope, I will stick with my non folding Catrike which I am confident in … that it won’t fail me. I like to … KEEP ON TRIKIN! …. and ….
ENJOY THE RIDE!
We often hear/read that line about one thing or another making us look fat. Frequently it is meant to be funny. But, hey, being fat isn’t funny … nor is it fun. Those of us who are fat, especially obese, are our own worst enemy. I ought to know. I have been fat most of my adult life. I come from a family that are mostly overweight. This was mostly on my mom’s side of the family. I was always normal weight as a child. I weighed 140 pounds when I graduated from high school. I started gaining weight when I reached about 22 years of age. This was while I was in the Navy. It has been a battle ever sense … one which I have not done very well in winning. I have lost all my excess weight about 3 times, but always gained it right back and usually more. On one of my weight loss attempts I got down to 135 pounds. Here is a picture of me in the Navy before I started gaining weight. I think I was about 20 years old here. As you can see I was still normal weight. I didn’t usually wear coveralls, but I was on this occasion as I was about to work on a nasty job which could easily ruin my work uniform.
Although I am talking mainly about myself in this posting I want to address the subject of being overweight and exercise. I don’t think it is any secret that here in the United States we have a serious issue with obesity. Just looking at people in most any direction or place we see it. (It is pretty hard not to see it.) And the tadpole triking scene is no exception. In fact, it seems that the majority of tadpole riders have an issue with their weight. We turn to our trikes as a form of exercise in hope that we will lose weight. Some do, but many don’t. I am among those who haven’t done very well losing weight no matter how much riding I do (and I have done a lot). I have talked to others who have told me the same thing. I am sure most of us have heard the saying … Calories In, Calories Out. The bottom line here is simply that exercise alone is not enough. It is far more about what we eat and how much we eat. It takes a whole lot of riding to burn off the calories of unhealthy meals, snacks, soda pop, milkshakes, candy bars, etc. And most of us who are overweight do not eat healthy foods like we should.
I love cheeseburgers, french fries, chocolate milk shakes, candy (especially chocolate), ice cream, cakes and pies … you know … all the foods that taste so good but aren’t good for us. A few years ago I tried to go the vegetarian route. At first it was okay and I definitely lost weight eating nothing but vegetables, fruits and nuts (the foods God told us that He gave us to eat). However, it didn’t take long before I grew very tired and dissatisfied and longed for meats and other unhealthy foods again … foods that I have eaten all my life. So I went back to my old lifestyle and gained the weight right back. I had lost about 50 pounds eating “bible foods” and I felt great. The original foods God provided for man were grains, fruits, nuts, and vegetables. “They constitute the diet chosen for us by our Creator. These foods, prepared in as simple and natural a manner as possible, are the most healthful and nourishing. They impart a strength, a power of endurance, and a vigor of intellect, that are not afforded by a more complex and stimulating diet.” (see Original Bible Diet)
Recently I lost 30 pounds after the knee joint replacement surgeries. I was encouraged and thinking I would be able to continue losing weight. However, it didn’t take long before I gained back 20 of those 30 pounds rather quickly. Recently I have lost 4 pounds, but it is a battle ground and I am not doing well at it. As much as I would like to, I can’t blame my trike. It is not what makes me look fat. When I point a finger at it I have 3 fingers pointing back at myself. Nope, it definitely is not my trike that makes me look fat. It is easy to try to put the blame somewhere … anywhere … rather than simply admit we like food and don’t discipline ourselves as we need to. I stand guilty. How about you? Yeah, I know. Now I am medlin’. Sorry!
As much as I love riding my trike I know I greatly limit myself being overweight. Hill climbing is where it is most obvious. Pedaling a lot of weight up a hill is slow going and makes it extra difficult. When I am riding with friends they don’t slow down nearly as much as I do. Yep, all that extra weight makes a huge difference. I often wonder how I would do if I weighed 140 pounds again. I would like to think I could out perform my friends I ride with. (And I am pretty sure I could.)
So what’s the problem you ask? Well, I lack the motivation and self discipline needed. I confess it. Shame on me. I have nobody or nothing to blame but myself. I certainly can’t blame my trike. It has done an amazing job hauling my fat carcass around all of these years. I have to sort of feel sorry for it because of all I put it thru. I just recently discovered that I have two more broken spokes on my left front wheel. I have had a lot of broken spokes and have come to the conclusion that most of this is probably the result of the load the wheels carry. Hard cornering with a fat tub aboard tends to break spokes.
Nope, my trike doesn’t make me look fat. I make me look fat. I acknowledge it. I am guilty. I really need to eat a salad for lunch and probably supper too. (And without any dressing on it!) ( … but a cheeseburger sounds so much better.)
Some riders have FAT trikes while some trikes have FAT riders. Hmmm, another fact of life. Well, fat, normal or thin … do your best to …
ENJOY THE RIDE!
and don’t believe the saying “Thin may be in, but fat is where it’s at”
It’s a lie!
From the GreenSpeed recumbent trike company is this new speed trike … AERO.
The Aero has been designed to satisfy the “Need for Speed”. The design builds on the best features of previous GreenSpeed trikes, including the SLR race trike which has dominated Australian Pedal Prix racing for the last ten years. Thus the Aero is a road version of the SLR, with more speed features to make it the fastest production trike in the world.
STREAMLINED AERO DYNAMICS:
At 20 mph, 80% of an ordinary bike rider’s energy goes into pushing the air aside. This is what makes it so much harder to ride into a headwind, than a tailwind. On the Aero you’ll LOVE headwinds! Because when you turn into a headwind on the Aero, you will leave the competition behind, if you haven’t already. Even the cross member on the Aero is streamlined. This is because a streamlined tube has 1/10th the drag of a round tube! The more the seat is reclined, the smaller your frontal area is to the wind and the faster you go. The seat of the Aero is reclined at a low 20 degrees. Wind tunnel testing shows a large gain in speed when using wheel covers. Most bikes and trikes cannot use front wheel covers due to instability in cross winds. The Aero overcomes this and further reduces drag by using 16” front wheels with a 20” rear wheel.
To further reduce air drag, the Aero uses the joy stick steering that was first used on the SLR. This is linear action steering, allowing the hands and arms to be closer to the body, moving fore and aft, instead of moving sideways, where your arms catch more wind. The cranks are above the seat, so that the feet are within the frontal area for the body, reducing air drag. Our wind tunnel testing has shown that the exposed calipers on disk brakes produce more drag that drum brakes, where the drum is contained within the wheel. So the Aero uses special 90 mm drum brakes which have been reduced in overall width to fit within the wheel slim wheel covers. Finally, there is a new headrest available if needed. It has a single support strut, in line with the neck, instead of the two struts on previous headrests.
While weight has less of an effect on performance than aerodynamics, every aspect of the Aero has been examined for weight reduction. This starts with the frame. The frame of the Aero is non-folding, plus the seat frame is an integral part of the main frame so the weight of hinges and other joints and fasteners are eliminated. Plus the frames are mutually re-enforcing, and thus the whole structure can be lighter and more aerodynamic. We have used 7005 aluminium alloy for the Aero. This has reduced the weight of the frame by over 3 pounds, or 30% over the Cro Mo 4130 prototypes. Although the axle size has been increased from the 12mm of the SLR to 15mm on the Aero to reduce axle flex, the weight of the kingpins has been reduced, as has the front hubs, by totally removing the outer flange. Even the weight of the special GreenSpeed Scorcher tires has been reduced for the Aero. Thus you will notice how quickly the Aero accelerates with the first stroke of the pedals.
There is a myth in the cycling world that the larger the wheel, the easier it will roll. This is a carryover from the horse and carriage days, when the larger wheels would sink less into soft ground and a larger steel tired cartwheel would roll easier over a certain size stone. This changed forever with the advent of sealed roads and the pneumatic tire.
There is also a myth that thinner tires roll faster. In laboratory testing at GreenSpeed, on many different types and sizes of tires, it was discovered that not only did smaller diameter tires roll easier that large ones of the same construction and pressure, but wider tires rolled easier than narrow ones. Plus certain types of tire construction rolled easier than others. This led to the design and manufacture of the GreenSpeed Scorcher tires, which have been the number one choice of the top Australian racing teams for the last 10 years.
For the Aero we have taken another look at the design of the Scorchers and managed to further improve the rolling resistance by an extra 15%! When you stop pedalling the Aero and coast, you will be surprised at how easily it rolls.
On a Penny Farthing bicycle, the larger the front driving wheel, the faster it went. This was because there was no gearing and it was direct drive. The ground covered with each wheel revolution was dependent on the size of the wheel, which was dependent on the length of the rider’s legs. Then the Safety came along with the smaller wheels and gearing, so everything changed. However the myth that larger wheels are faster persists to this day.
This myth is perpetuated by the use of gearing designed for bikes with 26” and 700c wheels which is fitted to many trikes with 20” wheels. This results in gearing which is far too low for speed. Thus instead of the standard 50/39/30 cranksets and 11/32 cassettes fitted to many trikes, the Aero has a 56/42/28 crankset and a 9/28 ten speed cassette. This gives a top gear of 20 x 56/9 = 124 inches, V 20 x 50/11 = 91 inches for a standard 20” wheeled trike, or 26 x 50/11 = 118 inches for a standard trike with 26” rear wheel. The Schlumpf Mountain Drive is a popular alternative to the triple, and with the standard 60t ring and the 9/28 cassette, will give a range from 17 to 133 inches. Thus on the Aero you can be sure you will be faster than a trike with a 26” or 700c rear wheel. Plus the Aero will handle better due to less rear end flex.
USES AND ACCESSORIES:
Since the Aero is built for speed, with no compromises, it is intended for use on sealed roads or good, hard packed trails. Accessories include wheel covers, headrest, rear fender and luggage rack. Riders who have previously ridden only recumbent bikes, due to their superior speed, but wished for a more stable machine that they could relax on over long distances, without losing speed, may find their dreams come true with the Aero.
30 DAY TEST RIDE:
We build our trikes with love and our confident that you will love your trike. However, a trike is quite different to a regular bike, and while most people feel immediately at home riding our trikes, some can take a little longer to get the best from them. Thus we offer you a 30 day Test Ride if you live too far from a dealer to take test ride at a dealer’s store. So if you are not 100% happy with your GreenSpeed trike, simply ship the trike back to us within 30 days of the shipping date and we will refund you the full retail price of the trike, less any allowance for wear and, or damage.
Frame: Aluminium Alloy 7005
Width: 30”- 76 cm
Length: 80”- 202 cm
Height: 20” – 51cm
Seat Height: 6.5” – 16 cm
Seat Angle: 20 degrees
Crank Height: 12.5 to 14.7” – 32 to 37 cm
X-seam range: 39 to 47” – 99 to 119 cm
Ground Clearance: 2.6” – 7 cm
Turning Circle: 14 feet – 4.3 m
Track: 28.3”- 72 cm
Wheelbase: 41.3” – 105 cm
Front Wheels: 16” Alloy rims with SS spokes and carbon fibre covers
Rear Wheels: 20” Alloy rim with SS spokes and carbon fibre covers
Tires: GreenSpeed Slicks, 16” x 1 ½” & 20” x 1.5” – 40-349 & 40-406, 40 to 100 psi.
Gears: 30 speeds
Cranks: Shun SS-ZO-300 56/42/28 x 165 mm
Cassette: 10 speed 9/28
Front Derailleur: Shimano 105
Rear Derailleur: Shimano 105
Chain: YBN S10
Shifters: Shimano Dura Ace 10 speed Bar End
Gear Range: 18 to 124” – 689%
Brakes: GS – Sturmey Archer 90 mm drums
Standard Equipment: Carbon fibre wheel covers
Optional Extras: Head rest, luggage rack, rear mudguard
Rider weight Limit: 250 lbs – 120 kg
Luggage Weight Limit: 66 lbs – 30 kg
Trike Weight: 31 lbs – 14kg
Boxed Size: 58 x 25 x 16” – 148 x 63 x 40 cm
Visit the GreenSpeed Aero website page: http://greenspeed-trikes.com/aero.html#rating
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